Reflections on Ramazan/Ramadan from a Christian perspective

Someone suggested that Ramadan fasting causes people to get crankier and more aggressive as the day goes on.  I wonder how much of that is true versus how much non-Muslims think it must be true and then see it all around them.  I was walking today and accidentally bumped into a woman because the sun was in my eyes and she yelled at me.  In Turkish, so I don't know what names she actually called me, but I also couldn't help but wonder if others would have chalked that up to Ramazan fasting when really she is just a cranky person?  I don't know her, so I can't begin to guess one way or the other.
The idealist in me would is saddened by the idea that Ramazan fasting actually makes people crankier.  I understand, from a realist perspective, that the body needs food, that fasting for this long can give you headaches and that generally speaking you're going to be cranky if you can't eat. It's hot and sticky and air condition is not used as readily as it is in the US. But, the purpose of fasting in all three Abrahamic religions is to bring the follower closer to God, to ensure they understand their reliance on God, to stop an obsession or distraction from worldly things, and to remind the follower of the blessings God pours out.  It is also intended to be an expression of compassion as we gain a sense of understanding for those who are poor or weak or otherwise going without. This is the purpose of fasting generally and of Ramazan/Ramadan specifically: to bring the follower closer to God.  The idea that it would then be the reason you curse out a driver in front of you or get snarky with a customer at your restaurant seems to detract from the purpose of the holiday.

Then again, I don't like to fast because it's not a requirement in Christianity and I know it *does* make me cranky.  I do, however, often give things up for Lent when I think it has become a distraction in my life.  For 40 days, I might get to eat and drink anytime I want, but I am giving up something that I have come to love. This year, it was diet coke and I realized that I had a habit of just ordering a soda whenever I was out for lunch or dinner.  It's a disgusting habit but giving it up was much harder than I anticipated.  I would suddenly realize I had no idea what to order if I didn't want alcohol.  I hate paying for bottled water, but the tap water for UK restaurants isn't always filtered and I don't like the taste of my local tap.  Most everything on the men then becomes a variation on soda or alcohol, with an occasional coffee thrown in for good measure.

I admire the Muslim fasting month because it does require self control and it also requires a real reminder of our reliance on God.  While I always remembered I wasn't drinking soda, I didn't always then remember the why.  We don't really need diet coke, so remember that this is a response to God's blessing isn't automatic.  But being hungry every may cause you to remember and reflect on all that God has done for you.

I'm not saying that Christianity should adopt a legalistic approach to fasting. My belief is that God wants us to engage in the things that bring us closer to Him and to disengage in the ones that don't.  As a result of His love and desire, I find a God accepting that I don't like fasting but I do like other things, like writing or art, that take me closer to Him.  If I did fast, I would only face one requirement: "do not look somber as the hypocrites do, for they disfigure their faces to show others they are fasting." 

I'm really glad my dad doesn't have to fast because he would so redefine the word "cranky" if he did! (Dear Dad: Aren't you glad Obama's not really trying to force us into being a Muslim state?!) But I do think there is beauty in Ramazan/Ramadan fasting and it is causing me to reflect more closely on my relationship with God - even while I'm not doing it!

I have been surprised, though, that I live as close to a mosque as I do but haven't been woken up by morning prayers.  I actually haven't heard loud-speaker prayers at all!  In Kosovo and Morocco, I woke up every day to morning prayers.  I actually found it soothing in a way; while I am not Muslim and never understood what they were saying, the reminder that I should be in prayer was an important and good one for me. While I never got on the floor, let alone pointed in a specific direction, I would often turn over in bed, say a few sentences and then fall back to sleep.

And that's what I'm going to do now... say a few prayers and then go to zzzzzzzzz....

A (very) little of Istanbul

I landed in Istanbul today in the midst of Ramadan, the Holy month of Islam. In Turkish, it's actually Ramazan, not Ramadan, so that's what I'll be using this month.  (Unfortunately for me, I only know how to say "Happy Ramadan" or "Ramadan blessings" in Arabic, so hopefully I'll learn the Turkish soon, too!)

Turkey will be the third Muslim dominant country that I've stayed in for more than week. In fact, every time I've gone to a Muslim dominant country, it's been for longer than a week. I'm glad I get that time, though, as the adjustment is steeper than, say, when I head to Belgium for a long weekend. I'm not used to being woken at 5am by someone praying on a loud speaker; I'm not used to being so completely incompetent in a local language; and, I'm not used to being so conscious of my American-ness. On that last point, I'm not conscious of it in the sense of shame, but rather in the knowledge of what it means to be perceived by another based solely on your ethnicity and your accent. The expectation that I am wealthier than I am and the expectation that I am a more willing bedroom partner than I am come up regularly based on nothing more than my nationality.

I haven't had much time to do anything yet.  I landed in late afternoon, unpacked my belongings in the room that is mine for 5 weeks, and then... fell asleep.  I blame my British clothes dryer, which stupidly listened to me when I told it to do the wrong thing, forcing me to stay up until 2am to ensure I had dry clothes for this trip.

I hadn't planned on doing much anyhow.  In Ramazan, Muslims are supposed to fast from sun up to sun down. Being a Christian, this is not a requirement of my faith but I have fasted in the past, usually to raise money for charity but occasionally for spiritual growth.  I know how annoying it is when you haven't eaten all day and then someone comes by with a big juicy hamburger. So, I thought I was being culturally sensitive to wait until closer to sundown to get food.  Unfortunately, sun down comes quickly and by the time I went out foraging for food (which should have taken me about 50 feet from my hotel to the nearest grocers), the only thing I could find open in my area was a Papa John's.  Everyone else was celebrating iftar, the breaking of the fast for the evening.

Before I left for the grocers / Papa John's, I was talking to another American woman here. She suggested I head to the mosque if I want an "adventure" as it's not very far from where I'm staying and passed a local fruit vendor.  "But, won't they be praying?" I asked.  She said yes, and that if I actually want to go into the mosque, it might not be the best time to go now.  They likely wouldn't let me in, and if they did taking pictures of people praying isn't exactly the height of tact.  I agreed, noting that I'll probably visit a mosque sometime this month but during the evening iftar celebrations, I couldn't bring myself to even try. I was a little thrown by her response: "That's very culturally sensitive of you."

I should explain that I'm here for a multi-week event with a lot of foreign students and teachers who should be culturally sensitive.  When I attend events like this - or when students arrive for the LL.M. and M.A. every year - I have a presumption that those around me are culturally attuned.  But I've found that there's a very low bar for Americans who travel.  You're not taking pictures of people praying?  Wow - that's very culturally sensitive of you.  You're not accosting women wearing a burqa just so you can show your family back home what you saw?  You're a cultural super star!  You take a scarf with you to a mosque?  Why, they should make you the Ambassador to the UN!

I don't think my colleague was suggesting I treat the Muslim holiday like my own personal photo-fest.  She likely just hadn't realized how dark it was getting outside.  An hour earlier, I could have easily walked to the mosque, taken a few pictures, and been gone by the time anyone arrived for evening prayers.

So, tonight has been particularly low-key.  I talked with the Papa John's pizza guys and watched their TV while I waited for a small Hawaiian pizza, stared at Turkish lira, came back and got some work done.  I'll unfortunately be doing a lot of work this month, which means I won't be doing as much site-seeing as I normally would, but it's good work and it's going to be a fun month.  I'll try to keep you updated here.